ON THE GO – The All Star Team, originally uploaded by atlanticplace.
– Sent from my Palm Pre
ON THE GO – The All Star Team, originally uploaded by atlanticplace.
– Sent from my Palm Pre
It still leaves me feeling tickled that this is my very first DSLR. Sure, I’ve shot them before, owned by friends and family, but I’ve never had one to call my own. Up until this point, I have used compact digitals and film bodies.
There’s a lot of power in one of these things. It’s got enough buttons to make Steve Jobs’ head explode. As much as I pretend tech-savvy at times, it has taken some careful study to get the thing to perform as I expect. I still worry about losing my soul to this digital device, that somehow my mojo will be sapped by its multitudinous options. Yet, some of my results from the last few days have eased my worry.
The 18-105mm kit lens isn’t bad, though I have noticed some vignetting at the max telephoto end, and some distortion at the wide end. You can see that represented in some of my new additions to Flickr. Also, despite Aperture being updated to 3.1 today, I still can’t process the RAW files through it.
Nikkor Ai 50mm/1.4
Nikkor 18-105mm kit lens. Notice the bends?
Months of speculation and scouring rumor sites have come down to this. I now own a Nikon D7000.
After waiting on a pre-order that never materialized, I walked into a Best Buy this morning and there it was. Go figure.
After spending much of the day fondling handling it and testing, I can say that it terrifies me. Why? Because I need to be very aware of, for lack of a better phrase, ‘who I am’ while I shoot. For the same reason that back at film school they forced us to shoot and cut 16mm, I now have to be sure to shoot like a photographer and not a tourist. If my photos aren’t sharp, it could it be because I’m shooting like a jackass. Don’t be a jackass Doug.
In any case, I took the camera on safari at the local crafts store, and here’s what I came up with. These are JPEGS on “Normal” quality. I haven’t shot RAW yet, mostly because the camera is so new, my software doesn’t know how to deal with the files. The lens was my trusty Ai 50mm 1.4, which becomes more like a 75mm on this camera.
What luxurious problems I face, where it is impossible to make a wrong choice. In view, two outcomes move me ahead a few spaces on the board game of life. I can’t believe my decision has really come down to that old standby – film or digital? What kind of artist do I wish to become? What kind of work do I really wish to focus on now.
It’s so easy, you see, to give in to technology. There isn’t necessarily anything wrong with it either! The Herreshoff family of boat builders sought out what was then cutting edge material such as aluminum in their designs. Were they alive today they surely would use carbon fibre. Just so, I wonder if Ansel Adams would walk about with a Leica M9? Throw a digital back onto his Hasselblad?
Search Flickr and you will find miles and miles of competent photography – the vast majority of which comes from digital sensors. It’s a great learning tool, really. You can inspect images from a range of different cameras, study the effect of different focal lengths, analyze compositions that do or no not work. It all represents a lot of competition! Your work, scattered amongst the noise of so many millions of other photographs, runs the risk of being, well, equalized? You become part of the baseline, part of the control group. How does one rise above?
If you’re serious about photography – and I mean really serious – you need to focus. You need to put all your energy into a project that is coherent and strive for a body of work which conveys a story or theme. Images which seem to reach right out of the picture and hug your heart. You know this feeling when you walk into a gallery of exceptional work.
I have pre-ordered a Nikon D7000, yes. Yes, I am sure that it will be an excellent camera, exceedingly capable for a wide range of practices. But again I ask the question, what can I do to differentiate my results from the all assimilating Borg cube of Flickr?
Digital sensors are perfect almost to a fault. There can be no accidents on the electronic side of things. It either works as it should, or not at all. This is great if you want consistent results for professional work such as commercial photography or sports. But what about fine art photography? What about the creation of anything artistic at all? I believe that one of the fundamental elements of the creative process is allowing room for error, and integrating error into your vision.
When a painter mixes color, there are any number of ways to make a hue which might be called “green”. A very careful painter can achieve great consistency, but not perfectly so. Different brands and kinds of paint, of brush, canvas, or finishing, can all interact through the guidance of the painter to create a unique result.
A wood carver too can select from a diversity of woods, of different densities and color. The work will be affected by the subtle randomness of tools and environment just as the painter. Even the filmmaker shooting a digital camera system will be allowed plenty of room for accident through the collaborative process of making a movie.
But the individual photographer, shooting with a digital camera, has less opportunity for accident. Less room for random transformation by the environment. This has aided in creating the situation described in this lament by Herzog, that “…the images that surround us today are worn out; they are abused and useless and exhausted.”
Shooting film provides more room for error. There are variations in chemistry. Different film stocks have different looks which are not at all easily duplicated in Photoshop, and attempting to do so would be somehow inauthentic.
Right? I mean… am I right?
I just don’t know. I’m torn between two methods of working. Each will produce images, but which – oh my which! – is the fine art approach?
If I’m really going to the tropics (as it seems I am), and I hope to photograph jungle wildlife, then in theory, a weather resistant dSLR with fast lenses should be a good choice. But if I’m gunning for a gallery, does this get me where I want to be?
What about another choice? What about doing what few would dare to? I get a Hasselblad. An old, boxy, clunky, heavy Hassie with slow lenses. I record my images onto big old paper rolls of Kodak T-100 and Fuji Velvia and even Polaroid. I set up the bulk of my shots on a tripod. Work methodically. Plan carefully. Expose with the aid of a dedicated spot meter. It would be challenging, frustrating, difficult and demanding work – but my results would reflect this conflict in the best possible way. Somehow, my images would show the heart and toil that I poured into capturing them.
But I am sacrificing a few things which I thought at first I needed. No video on this frontier. No twilight shooting at ISO 6400. No autofocus, no zoom lenses, one frame at a time. No instant replay – no second chances.
Yet at the same time, I don’t have to hike about with hard drives. Suddenly I become less of a target for theft. Suddenly my camera gear laughs at the rain because it’s 95% mechanical.
There are so many points in favor of either system, I really feel like flipping a coin. I can only afford one or the other, not both. Each package will cost roughly the same.
So the question remains – how do I create images to reach out and hug your heart?
Engadget has posted a piece about a group that has figured out how to record HDR video. HDR (High Dynamic Range) Photography has been a controversial next step in image capture since just about day one. Purists complain for reasons I can’t quite understand. It seems like a completely valid and complementary way of expressing yourself through photography to me, and how often have you heard professionals complaining that an image sensor doesn’t have enough dynamic range? Here you go – problem solved. As Steve Jobs explained when he demoed the feature for iPhone 4 in the new OS update, a digital camera takes three (or more) images in rapid succession, each exposed for what Ansel Adams might have called a different “zone”. One is underexposed, one is overexposed, and one is juuuuusst right.
The underexposed image will have black shadows but keep detail in the highlights, the overexposed image will blow out the highlights but pick up detail in the shadows. Then, through the magic of software, the images are combined, such that detail is preserved in the shadows and highlights. A thus:
In addition to the multiple exposures, many users also use more software tricks to saturate the colors and create this kind of surreal effect. Yet, I’ve never seen the trick applied to video before, or even considered that it could be done. Yet, Soviet Montage has managed to do just that, by hacking a pair of Canon 5D Mk. II’s and splitting the live-view feed, or some such thing. I also think it’s hysterical that they use the same wordpress theme as I do. I highly suggest you turn Vimeo’s HD on.
The result is quite surreal I think you’ll agree. The images almost look like they’ve been pulled out of a video game rendering or a Richard Linklater film. The human face is particularly unnerving. Yet perhaps with more time and advanced processing, we might be looking at the future of all video capture. Think of it – with 3D TV’s on the horizon that don’t require glasses, and super high-def resolutions, this seems to be the final key to making TV about as close to looking through a window as we’ll get until we catch up with Star Trek.
The question is how to make it work with one camera instead of two. It would seem that if you could get a fast enough processor to shoot at around 72fps, with every three frames being treated as a grouping of the same exposure, you’d be able to scale it back to 24fps and have an HDR effect. Of course any small bit of motion between the frames would be problematic. If they’re already shooting 3D movies with dual lens cameras, why not build some sort of Chimera camera with three parallax adjusted lenses? 3D HDR? I really know nothing about how this would work. Still fun to think about.
Note: I realize I’m being something of an armchair critic with the following piece, but I have done an awful lot of reading and researching.
I need to write this so I’ll stop thinking about it so much. If you want a snapshot of that which takes up most of my brain clock-cycles, here you have it. What kinds of things should an advanced amateur, looking to one day go pro, consider in purchasing new equipment?
Currently, my gear consists of an inherited Nikon FE and 4 Ai lenses, a 28/3.5, a 50/1.4, a 135/3.5, and some odd zoom which I can’t remember. It’s a 44-80 or some odd middle range. I also have a newly acquired Polaroid SLR-680, which works most of the time, but has a few issues, a mostly working Canonet 2.8, and a Holga.
Now, I could shoot this gear until the day I die, and with proper care and maintenance, it might just last me that long (well, maybe not the Holga). The Nikon, particularly mated with the 50mm, makes a great picture.
However, knowing the kind of work I want to do in the future, I just can’t compete with the swiss-army knife abilities of the modern dSLR. Blazing fast shooting speeds, near night-vision ISO, HD video – yes – it’s time I stepped into the digital darkroom.
What do I need in a camera? Let’s investigate the type of photography I hope to do, and see what fits. Continue reading
It’s great to see media professionals willing to share all (or most) of their trade secrets, experience, and methods for we up and comers. Here, photographer Chase Jarvis talks workflow, and how he gets his material from the camera to the archive and out to the clients.
Having blown through all my Leica shots yesterday, I bring you the first of a series taken with my new Canon Canonet 28. It’s a lovely little camera, if a little limiting and sort of broken. I got it used on eBay with no promises as to its function.
It is about halfway between a point and shoot and a manual camera. A fixed 40mm lens gives you focus, aperture and ISO controls, but no shutter speed control. The ISO selector is limited to 400 on my model, and you can no longer find a battery to exactly match the voltage of the old mercury ones, which throws off the metering a bit. But it focuses quickly and accurately, is fairly quiet and unobtrusive, and a great little street camera to walk about with in the daytime. The film stock was Kodak Tri-X.
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